Bicycling & Hiking Tours in Ecuador | San Jorge Bicycling & Hiking Tours at San Jorge Ecolodges, Ecuador Two wheels or two feet — Ecuador’s cloud forests, valleys, and volcanoes are within reach either way. San Jorge Eco-Lodges built its bicycling and hiking tours for travelers who want to move through nature, not just look … Read more
SAMARKAND A Mandatory Rest Day It wasn’t a difficult decision. It was a necessary one. For several days, my body had been sending me signals that I stubbornly refused to acknowledge. While my mind was already dreaming about the next stage, my legs were asking for a break. It had been thirty-six days of almost … Read more
GIJDUVAN. THE SUN, THE TAPCHAN, AND A NEW FAMILY As has become the norm, there wasn’t a single cloud anywhere on the horizon. The sky stretched endlessly above a surprisingly green landscape, nourished by a river that transforms these lands into an oasis of crops in the middle of Central Asia’s relentless heat. Gijduvan has … Read more
Bukhara – Gijduvan Once again, the sun was the day’s main character. As has become the norm in Uzbekistan, temperatures easily climbed above 40°C (104°F) by midday. Under these conditions, I completely understand why locals recommend resting during the hottest hours and starting to ride around 4:30 in the morning. I think I’ll have to … Read more
Cycling into Bukhara The darkness of the night, together with that instinct for survival every traveler eventually develops, convinced me to look for an unexpected place to stay before reaching Bukhara. It was already around 10:00 p.m., and I still had about 15 unfamiliar kilometers separating me from the city after leaving the railway station. … Read more
Bye Bye Khiva. Welcome, Bukhara. With a heavy heart, I leave Khiva behind—the city of One Thousand and One Nights. Some places leave a permanent mark on your soul. Khiva is one of them. I didn’t say goodbye to its ancient gate. I didn’t acknowledge its silent complicity, standing there through the passing of centuries, … Read more
The usual morning routine. A good night’s sleep, a refreshing shower, and a hearty breakfast. Breakfasts at this hostel are an absolute delight. Several kinds of homemade jams, different cheeses, sausage, a colorful egg omelet, three varieties of bread, unlimited tea, and fresh fruit. It’s almost impossible to start the day in a bad mood … Read more
KHIVA (Part I). The City That Rose Again from the Desert It was a busy morning from the moment I opened my eyes. End of the month. Time to pay bills, check my finances, buy a few supplies, organize expenses, and catch up on all those little tasks that tend to pile up when you … Read more
THE TRAIN TO URGENCH. TOWARD THE LAND OF ONE THOUSAND AND ONE NIGHTS It was 11:25 p.m. when I finally left the hotel in Beineu for good. The railway station—the true economic heartbeat of this small border town and perhaps its busiest landmark—was only a few minutes away. I switched Google Maps to driving mode … Read more
BEINEU. THE LAST HOURS ON THE STEPPE After a rainy night, the sky began to clear in an almost miraculous way. Little by little, patches of blue emerged through the clouds, as if announcing that the journey was ready to move forward once again. This is my last day in Beineu. Tonight, at eleven o’clock, … Read more
